After a couple days in
Burgas was time to go across the Black sea. The burgas west port is actually
located on the south of the city, on the Industrialna ulitsa 5. As we came
closer to the port we realized that no other tourist would be there, it was
definitely a cargo boat. The person to
whom we booked the trip asked us to be there between 16 and 18 hours. In my
understanding that was the time for which they expect to have all the cargo
(trucks) on board, but it was not. They requested us to be there at this
specific time because the dinner was served at 18 hours. We went thru the
different passport inspections until we were allowed to go up the boat where I
been asked to park the bike on a corner next to a truck and follow a crew
member up to the reception. We followed the guy three floors up, then crossed a
bridge over the cargo area, and finally into a area at which we were later
looked. On the reception we been told that the boat was not going to leave
until the early morning since a lot of trucks had to be loaded. Anyway… we were
there already, we made ourselves comfortable on our room and waited for diner
time. The area where we could actually
move around was quite small, a small restaurant where the food was served (3
meals a day), a small small recreation area with a tv and a bending machine,
always full of people smoking, giving to the space an unbreathable atmosphere,
and a small terrace over the cargo looked thru a face on to the bridge. The
place was slowly being filled by different nationality truck drivers,
Bulgarians, Russians, Azerbaijans and Georgians. They did not mix the groups,
and they pretty much hate each other.
Punctually at 18 we
went to the restaurant area. There we had the fist short talk with the first
person, the cook or the waiter, no idea. We exchange the first information of
each other (in Russian), and he express a huge happiness to know I was from Spain.
Then we put down his trousers and showed us the tattoos on his legs, the real Madrid
emblem and the Santiago Bernabeu stadium. He was damn crazy for real Madrid
(shoes, slippers, perfume…) , he looked also like a dangerous person that would
be just your friend in prison, but as his friend later told me “he is crazy,
but he has a big heart”
On the first diner we
saw already a fight between some Bulgarian and some Russian track drivers. All
of them looked at us wondering with u were we playing with. No one approached
us until the end of the diner, where everybody was sitting in prison as small
gangs. At the end, the guy that had a
fight came to me (always speaking in Russian), and told me that the Russians were crazy, too much vodka.
Later, he turned to be our best friend. Yuri, a Bulgarian truck driver.
Slowly we end up
talking with the different gangs (mostly in Rusian but also in German, Italian
or Spanish) and making friendship; although we stayed mostly with the
Bulgarians, since they were the leaders of the boat. They offered me to go in
their trucks to multiple destinations, Tibilisi, Baku, Iran… We had great fun,
they invited us to drink their home made alcohols (wine, rakia), even when it
was not allowed to drink in the boat; and treated Lilia as a princess. All of
them approached to her in silence to give her oranges. Even the barman of the
boat Georg, brought her a wine glass. A fine lady shouldn’t be drinking from a
plastic cup as the rest of the animals, us.
One of the days was
St. Georg; important date for Bulgaria and for the Barman. That night although
everyone was drinking no one was drinking as him. He teacher us how to dance
Bulgarian traditional music and danced a bit with Lilia.
We were the neutrals
of the boat, the tourist; but as them, and may be because of my long trip we could
say that we were all a bit crazy, so they adopted as one more of them.
One of the big guys gave me a banana but yes, mostly i was offered around 2-3 oranges per day. no words, no smiles. just silence and a piece of fruit. big guys, big trucks, big hearts :)
ResponEliminalook, i have a lot of random stuff to say. but I guess this is ok because when it gets dark you dont have a lot to do and so you can read, no? and dont go all ranger on us the only animals you're killing at night in the wild are mosquitoes :) so, here it goes.
1) The black sea is called black .. who knows why? First i read it was because it was so hard to navigate in the ancient times, not due to its big waves obviously (do people surf there?) but because its shores were inhabited by savage tribes. it was a dark bad place to be. Then it started to get interesting. It seems that black sea is anoxic, so theres no oxygen whatsoever at lower layers, meaning all decomposition processes are veery slooooow... meaning dead stuff/things/persons? persist there.. buuuuh. so glad we didnt get in. either ways, this was the source for scary rumors. I already got a documentary about it i'm just missing the popcorns
2) Pirates of the caribbean apart, the name origin may well be "an ancient assignment of colors to the direction of the compass, black referring to the north, and red referring to the south" , that's also fair.
3) The black sea is huge, that was a real (from reality) surprise for me, and basically every country around has their rivers draining water to it. This means one third of Europe drains water to black sea. wikipedia says. Austria, Belarus, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Bulgaria, Croatia, Georgia, Germany, Hungary, Moldova, Poland, Romania, Russia, Serbia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Turkey and Ukraine. This makes me think maybe the "dolphins" we saw jumping around are nothing more than mutant sardines which learn how to fly. very very likely. think about it
4) Lorena says they are marsopas (porpoise in english), which are basically small dolphins. One of the smallest marine mammals. She should know, she is a biologist.
5) The Black Sea has a maximum depth of 2,212 m. Which is more or less the size of the mountain you're crossing right now, right? you're mirroing the bottom of the sea. i guess it feels equally out of breath.
6) and coming back to point 3, do you wanna bet me again if the black sea is salted?
..to be continued..
(kiss)